Review: Badger & Co, Edinburgh

Revamped gastropub Badger & Co in Edinburgh city centre is taking food seriously and has transformed its offering, says Richard Bath.

Having a title or brand which is a play on words where the origin is lost on all but the cognoscenti has always left me a bit cold. It’s like brands with complicated Gaelic names which the intended purchaser won’t be able to pronounce – I just don’t get it.

Badger & Co in Castle Street in the centre of Edinburgh, it turns out, is just such a place. It transpires that this recently revamped gastropub owned by Signature (which has 20 venues, including Edinburgh landmarks like Copper Blossom, The Rutland, The Huxley and Kyloe) got its name from a former inhabitant, who was born at its premises, 32 Castle Street, in 1859. Almost 50 years later, Kenneth Grahame’s book, Wind in the Willows, was published, introducing the world to Ratty, Mole, Mr Toad and, most importantly for our purposes, Mr Badger.

I’ve met friends at Badger & Co in the past, but it’s always just been for drinks. The food looked to be bog standard pub fare so I’d always eaten elsewhere. That, however, changed recently when its owners, Signature, took the decision to take food seriously and as well as revamping the whole premises employed a new head chef in Scott Campbell, who was previously working at The Rutland before becoming head chef at McLarens on the Corner in Morningside. Campbell now heads up an eight-strong kitchen team.

The Revamp

The whole place has been given quite a substantial refresh and you now enter to a small but stylish bar, with high chairs at the bar and tables for two along the walls. There’s a wooden construction on the road outside where you can eat a pared-down menu and gaze up at Edinburgh Castle, not to mention a small private dining room.

The main dining area is the biggest change though: painted wooden panels on the walls, greenery hanging from the high ceiling, leather seating, a parquet floor and a large neon ‘Badger’ signs doesn’t sound like a coherent design strategy, but somehow it works to produce an airy, convivial space. Dogs are not just allowed, but seem to be encouraged.

The menu is in four sections which, although they try to sexy it up with headings like ‘small plates’ and ‘the main voyage’, seems to consist of conventional starters, main course and puddings. In any case, the attempted subterfuge is unnecessary because the choices are interesting enough without any puffery.

The starter options are well chosen – not so wacky that they’d put off most customers, but with sufficient interesting flourishes to pique interest; so, whisky smoked salmon with caviar, Cullen skink with squid ink tuille, crispy pork croquettes with raisin and sherry puree, baked caramelised onion with truffle cheese fondue. You get the picture.

We started with the steak tartare (£14) and cullen skink (£12), and both were strong gastropub offerings. The steak tartare was a decent portion, nicely seasoned and studded with tiny picked mushrooms, while the cullen skink was packed full of large chunks of lightly smoked haddock rather than the usual flakes.

Our main course was another example of being different enough to be interesting. My hefty pork tomahawk (£27) – an unusual cut with pork, but one which is rich and tender thanks to being a mix of ribeye and loin – was already good before it was much improved by the addition of n’duja and red pepper glaze, along with salsa verde. The steak and peppercorn pie (£21) with puff pastry and bonemarrow gravy that is apparently Campbell’s signature dish was also top-quality comfort food.

We rounded off with two puddings with very different characteristics. One was a curious dish that was described as a cranachan teacake (£8.50) but was basically a large Tunnocks teacake stuffed with raspberry, chocolate and whipped crème fraiche, the other was a substantial chunk of Clava Brie that came with oatcakes and chutney but also two slices of hot, home-made fruit loaf (£12.50). On balance, I’d go cheese next time.

The Verdict

Unpretentious and nicely judged, we enjoyed this meal. Badger & Co isn’t a couthy gastropub, but nor is it too high faluting. The food is superior pub grub, and although quite pricey, lives up to the price tag.

Badger & Co. 32 Castle St, Edinburgh EH2 3HT.

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