Weekends were made for good food, fine wine and feel-good surroundings. Chief sub-editor Rosie Morton heads to Tipo on Edinburgh’s Hanover Street on the promise of all three…
‘MY FRIEND once gave me the best advice,’ began my plus one, his head arching skyward. ‘Always look up in Edinburgh. So much is hiding up there.’
He is, of course, right. Edinburgh may be best known for its subterranean world – which includes the city’s much-loved Edinburgh Dungeons, Divino Enoteca Italian restaurant, Heads & Tales bar or The Vaults – but there is also a wonderful world up there in the skies; not least some excellent restaurants that put natural light to good use.
Nestled up one flight of stairs at 110 Hanover Street is Tipo, celebrated chef Stuart Ralston’s latest culinary venture, which (even on a rainy, grey day) was flooded with warmth and natural light. The dining area felt welcoming with its natural wooden tables and chairs, pared back colour scheme and dried flower decorations. And as we took our pews next to the high windows overlooking shops, bars and restaurants below, it presented us with the perfect bird’s-eye view for people-watching.
Stuart Ralston has launched his third Edinburgh restaurant, Tipo.
Tipo, the third Edinburgh restaurant in Ralston’s portfolio, has just over 50 covers, meaning it’s intimate enough to give it a sense of occasion. But Ralston isn’t trying to replicate the fine-dining feel of his Top 100 National Restaurant Aizle (based in Charlotte Square), nor his Asian-inspired Michelin-Bib-awarded Noto restaurant (on Thistle Street). Instead, Tipo is pitched as a casual dining experience, serving a mixture of small and large plates.
The name ‘Tipo’ – which is the finest grade of flour in Italy and is commonly used for making pasta – gives a strong clue as to what you might expect on the menu. Homemade fresh pasta is served alongside cured and aged charcuterie, Scottish ingredients and freshly prepared puddings, most of which have a distinctly European feel. Ralston’s brother, Scott – previously executive chef with Compass Group Edinburgh – is steering the ship in the kitchen, while friendly front of house staff are on-hand to answer questions about the extensive list of cocktails and small domaine, artisanal wines.
Focaccia with garlic confit. [Rosie Morton]
Proceedings began with fluffy sourdough focaccia with garlic confit (£6) from the ‘snacks and breads’ section. Served warm with a beautiful rosemary and salt-infused oil, this was an absolutely wonderful introduction to our lunch. This was swiftly followed by sea bass crudo with blood orange and mint (£14), one of their small, sharing plates. It was (almost) too beautiful to eat with edible flowers, sliced blood orange and perfectly placed herbs. The mixture of textures was equally well done, from the melt-in-the-mouth sea bass to the crunchy puffed rice that was sprinkled on top. We agreed that this dish alone was a serious statement of intent.
Sea bass crudo with blood orange and mint. [Rosie Morton]
By now, the food was coming thick and fast, and the next dish – strozzapreti pasta with a sausage ragu and cime di rapa (£14) – was recommended by our server who came from Lake Como. ‘Most pasta dishes have a tomato base, but this one is my favourite,’ she said, explaining that it had a rich, sumptuous sauce topped with Pecorino and Parmesan. And who were we to argue with an expert? The dish was astonishingly good. The pasta was al dente, the sauce was creamy and savoury, and the earthy bitterness from the green cime di rapa (also known as broccoli rabe) was totally sublime.
Strozzapreti pasta, sausage ragu and cime di rapa. [Rosie Morton]
It was, however, the next dish that was met with an audible gasp of delight as it hit our table. Roast porchetta, fennel and orange salad and caramelised apple sauce with a side of Parmesan roasted potatoes (£20) is Tipo’s take on the classic Sunday roast. The meat is braised for half a day, meaning that your knife and fork sink into it with ease. Capers added a salty pop to the jus while the citrus and fennel brought a welcome freshness. I’ve always been a fan of a traditional Sunday roast, but I would happily forgo a soggy Yorkshire pudd in favour of Ralston’s porchetta any day.
Porchetta with fennel and orange salad, and caramelised apple sauce. [Rosie Morton]
The dessert menu had three options, ranging from a vanilla and rhubarb soft serve (£6) to a warm chocolate cake with sabayon (£7) and a lemon tart with pistachio (£7), but we decided we should skip the sweet treats after such a generous feast. (There’s always next time).
In all, this was an exceptional experience with innovative, effortlessly melded flavours. Tipo – a reminder to us all that looking up from time to time pays dividends.
Tipo is now open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. (Bookings 12-2.30pm; 5.30-9pm; closed 4.30-5.30pm).
To find out more, please visit Tipo’s website.
110 Hanover St
Edinburgh
EH2 1DR
Tel: 0131 226 4545
Warm, natural wood creates a welcoming atmosphere.
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