Review: The Prancing Stag, Glasgow

It would be easy to miss The Prancing Stag, but this small but mighty restaurant tucked away beside Glasgow’s Jordanhill train station is the perfect neighbourhood eatery.

 

These days it’s hard to visit a restaurant you haven’t heard about at some point or another. Whether it’s the buzz around the opening of a new place, from foodies on social media, or good old fashioned word of mouth, not many places remain unknown anymore.

So I was surprised when I realised I hadn’t actually heard anything about The Prancing Stag in Glasgow’s West End.

The family owned eatery, tucked away beside Jordanhill train station, is headed up by chef Neil Keevill. Originally from the small village of Dinnet, Aberdeenshire, Keevill’s path diverged from chemical engineering to the culinary world after a transformative summer job at The Esplanade in Dunoon.

After five years as head chef at the Loch Kinord Hotel in Aberdeenshire, he took the helm at The Prancing Stag last year.

It’s a small restaurant, just 36 covers, but the place is packed and there is a good buzz for a dreich, windy Friday night when I arrive after work.

Inside, It’s simple in its style, with rich leather seats and a small, but stunning, stone bar.

We are delighted when a pair of hot bread rolls swiftly arrive to help warm us up. They are paired with a rich red, nutty, romesco dip and a delicious parmesan and black pepper butter.

For starters, we opt for perfectly cooked scallops sat on top of nice, albeit slightly underwhelming, pea and ham hough pancake. Slivers of sharp, zingy, preserved lemon bring the dish together well.

We also enjoyed divine miso braised pig cheek, with a sweet caramelised apple puree and celeriac. Flavours we all know and love done exceptionally well.

Next up is a meaty chunk of monkfish. It’s buttery soft, served on a bed of cabbage alongside pillowy potatoes.

My dining partner has the night’s special, lamb with a spring vegetable risotto and lovage pesto. It’s incredibly rich, but perfectly balanced with the freshness of the risotto.

We save room for puds, an incredible pineapple tarte tatin (possibly the best I have ever had), which is served with a coconut ice cream – think Piña colada on a plate.

The rhubarb and mascarpone tart is delightfully fresh, perfect if you don’t have a very sweet tooth. The Champagne poached rhubarb is soft and tangy, while the tart is perfectly cooked.

All in all, The Prancing Stagg offers up some cracking Scottish fare, a relaxed but vibrant atmosphere and excellent service. It’s hard to ask for much more.

The phrase ‘hidden gem’ is often bandied about too much these days. But it’s hard to think of a more perfect way to describe The Prancing Stag. Not just because of its out of the way location, but because it’s quite unbelievable people are not shouting about this place from the rooftops.

Maybe the residents of Jordanhill are just trying to keep a lid on this fantastic neighbourhood restaurant to make sure there is always a table for them on a Friday night.

 

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