REVIEW: The Holey Roast

Megan Amato fills her hole with “The Holey Roast”.

THE Broughton and Bross bagels are two of Edinburgh’s culinary treasures – one of which is a regular in the Michelin guide and the other so popular that new locations are popping up faster than dandelions. Together, they have created “The Holey Roast”: Bross’s signature “everything” bagel stuffed full of roast beef, potato hash, celeriac remoulade, and rocket, coated in a gravy mayonnaise.

I was fortunate enough to try one of these bagels at the Broughton’s Stockbridge Market pop up on Sunday. The market was heaving as usual and though the Broughton is not a regular fixture like the paella stand, there was a constant queue of people keen on tasting this collab from enthusiastic staff.

After being handed my very own bagel, I quickly squirreled it away before finding a quietish corner to enjoy it in. On first glance, it’s not anything special – at least not to this Canadian well used to Montreal bagels of various fillings. However, each bite proved better and better until the bagel was quickly demolished.

Each element and flavour of the bagel works together to heighten the experience of eating it, from the traditional firmness and nuttiness of Bross’s “everything” bagel to tender and juicy roast beef, creamy horseradish and celeriac remoulade, and peppery rocket. However, the star of the show was the saltiness of the potato hash in the middle, turning a great combination of flavours into an extraordinary one.

You can get your own “Holey Roast” from The Broughton from today until the end of the month.

Read more news and reviews on Scottish Field’s food and drink pages, in association with Cask & Still magazine.

Plus, don’t miss whisky columnist Blair Bowman’s views on alcohol marketing in the March issue of Scottish Field magazine.

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