Review: Pestana Royal Hotel, Madeira

I had never really considered Madeira for a holiday break until it came up through my online flight search: ‘Destination – anywhere, budget – under £150 and direct from Scotland’. Many of the European cities appeared but I was looking for something new and if possible some early season sun. 

Madeira? It ticked all the right boxes. I asked a few friends and family about it and most responses involved Madeira Wine, cake, their grandparents and of course Cristiano Ronaldo. But after a bit more research I was sold and decided it would be a good destination for my young family.

We flew direct from Edinburgh for about £100 per person return, in just under four hours. I’m a good flyer but as we approached on a very windy afternoon, with the sight of the huge waves crashing against the shore and the severe buffering of the plane, I was intrigued to see what the landing would be like. My fears were not helped by my neighbour’s cheerful remark about pilots needing special training to land at this notoriously tricky airport.

But after a surprisingly smooth landing, we were through the small airport and into a taxi within minutes – small airports have their advantages. Less than half an hour later we were checking in at the hotel.

The Hotel

We stayed at the modern Pestana Royal Hotel, which offered plenty of entertainment for all ages, including mini golf, a pool table, multiple swimming pools, a hot tub, badminton, tennis, table tennis, and a kids’ club. 

Most rooms and suites boast views over the gardens and pools to the ocean beyond. I chose the hotel based on its reviews (4/5 star rating) and the fact that it was one of the few top-end hotels offering all-inclusive on the island. Pestana is a well-established international brand with numerous properties on Madeira, so the staff were all well-trained and attentive.

We had dual interlinked rooms on the top floor with a huge bathroom with a bath, and a lovely large balcony overlooking the immaculate grounds, the pools and out to the ocean..

The food was a highlight, with a fantastic variety and quality that made it difficult to resist overeating. Even between meals, there were plenty of snacks available. The main restaurant’s location, at the canopy level of the courtyard garden, added to its relaxed atmosphere, and the service was impeccable. 

In addition to the buffet there is also an Italian and Madeiran themed restaurant – both were excellent. While all-inclusive might not suit everyone, it was a godsend with two young children and a break from cooking required – the freedom for them (and me!) to get another ice cream or drink without fuss was much appreciated.

We spent a lot of time by the ocean view pools, which had ample space and sunbeds, plus a swim-up bar and a constant refreshing ocean breeze. Although the outdoor pools weren’t heated, the temperature was pleasant, and there was a heated indoor pool and a fully equipped spa for cooler moments. A well-equipped indoor gym was also available.

Funchal

The Pestana Royal is situated west of the Island’s main town Funchal, offering a pleasant walk along the coastal path through rock-carved tunnels and tidal lidos. Funchal itself is a beautiful and historic town dating back over 500 years. Attractions include various cable cars, the famous street toboggan run, the old town, and botanical gardens, along with plenty of shops. 

We found shopping and eating out to be surprisingly inexpensive, generally cheaper than in the UK. The town is largely walkable, and the sight of at least two massive cruise ships in the harbour each day highlighted its popularity as a cruise destination.We enjoyed wandering through the streets shaded by Jacaranda trees through the markets and gardens and taking in the sights and sounds of the town

The Island

We rented a car which was an excellent way to explore the island. Word of warning – if you do rent a car don’t get a large one as some of the roads are extremely tight even for a small car. We travelled around the whole island over approximately five days and some of the views and sights were quite breathtaking.

The flora is really quite remarkable, and as you ascend up the mountains you go through various temperate zones from banana and fruit farms perched on cliff tops through fragrant eucalyptus plantations, to thick pine forests carpeted with giant ferns.

There’s not too many sandy beaches on the island as often cliffs drop straight into the ocean but the ones we found were clean, safe and good for swimming, there’s also the stunning tidal pools in the north west of the island.

A must-do in Madeira is a Levada walk. These small irrigation channels, built since the 16th century to carry water from the wet north-west to the drier south-east, offer paths ranging from easy strolls to challenging narrow routes with steep drops. There’s something for all abilities, and my daughters particularly enjoyed the views and the chance to walk behind waterfalls. It’s wise to be prepared, as conditions can change significantly between a hot day at the hotel and cooler, cloudier weather higher up in the Levadas. The island is relatively small, about half the size of Skye, but its highest peak is considerably taller than Ben Nevis.

On the food front, one of Madeira’s most famous foods are Espetadas, chunks of high quality marinated steak skewered on bay leaf branches and grilled over charcoal. Many places on the island do these and they are thoroughly recommended. Paired with a glass of the famed Madeiran wine they are my favourite Portuguese dish. Being an island, fish also features highly on most menus and a popular dish that really works well is the local speciality Black Scabbard fish and banana. It sounds a bit odd but again highly recommended.

It was a very relaxing break and I found the island fascinating. I’m glad we rented a car but it was nice to have a few days at the start and end to relax and enjoy the hotel. I would definitely go back to Madeira. It’s green, clean and it’s relatively low key in relation to most of Europe’s better known holiday destinations and that’s a good thing in my eyes. 

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