It was Coco Chanel who said ‘luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it’s not luxury.’
And I think it’s fair to say the purveyors of grandeur at Edinburgh’s famous The Caledonian Hotel have taken this motto to heart.
An imposing block of red sandstone on Edinburgh’s premier Princes Street, The Caley, as it’s affectionately known, oozes old-fashioned glamour in a building with spades of history.
After a day exploring the city, it’s the perfect place to unwind with all the comforts one could ever need – a small but mighty spa, enchanting restaurants and a swanky bar. Even Coco would be impressed.
We are greeted by a tartan trousered doorman when we arrive, quickly checked and given an impromptu tour of the hotel by our lovely receptionist.
Built in 1903 as Princes Street Station and The Caledonian Hotel, the train station was demolished in the late 1960s, but the hotel remained and has gone on to become one of the Capital’s finest landmarks.
The cast iron gates at the entrance to a car park in Rutland Street are the only remainder of the station outside the hotel, but the original station clock, which pre-dates the fire of 1890, has been preserved in the hotel.
‘The elaborate chandeliers and a restored marble central staircase in the lobby are truly incredible’
The original station clock, which pre-dates the fire of 1890, has been preserved in the hotel.
There’s a grandeur to the building that will sweep you off your feet. The elaborate chandeliers and a restored marble central staircase in the lobby are truly incredible.
News broke recently that the hotel is set to undergo a £35 million transformation following its sale last year, with plans to extend the hotel and increase its capacity to more than 300 rooms by early 2026, making it one of Edinburgh’s largest hotels.
We are shown to the room we are staying in, the Alexander Graham Bell Suite. We are told the aubergine-accented suite is the best in the hotel, with a spacious living room, which features stunning ornate high ceilings, a massive bedroom with glorious views and a bathroom roughly the size of my first flat.
The Alexander Graham Bell Suite.
The windows in all the rooms enjoy rousing views of Edinburgh.
The huge bathroom in the suite.
From the living area you can enjoy rousing views of Edinburgh, including the castle which feels within touching distance from the window.
The Parish Church of St Cuthbert can also be seen from the suite’s living room and the spectacular views stretch through to the bathroom, so you can soak in the Edinburgh skyline from the enormous Carrera marble bathtub.
Named after the eponymous inventor, the suite’s corridor is filled with black and white prints of the busy 1930s manual telephone exchanges. It’s a nice touch.
A bit of unpacking and we head downstairs to Peacock Alley, a circular lounge carved out of what was once the station ticket office. It’s the perfect spot to relax, with tired explorers and shoppers lounging in huge armchairs enjoying a coffee or a cocktail.
Peacock Alley, a circular lounge carved out of what was once the station ticket office.
We are having dinner at the restaurant joined on to the hotel, Grazing by Mark Greenaway. But we decide to have a drink at the Caley Bar before sitting down. Our charismatic waiter woos us with some good old-fashioned charm and quickly sees to getting us a couple of gin and tonics. The bar is busy enough for a Friday night. It has an opulent feel, dark and moody, very intimate but the prices are not for the fainthearted.
We move on to dinner which has been much anticipated. The restaurant is a relaxed dining space and has its own entrance for those not staying at The Caley, it feels very far from your typical hotel restaurant.
The menu unsparingly reflects Chef Greenaway’s much talked about commitment to Scotland’s larder. He selectively picks to work with the best Scottish and English producers, so whether it’s a humble carrot, the best scotch fillet of beef or anything in between, all the ingredients are at their peak seasonal best.
Chef Greenaway has a commitment to Scotland’s larder. He selectively picks to work with the best Scottish and English producers.
We share some wonderful crab to start. Served in the shell, it’s topped with a velvety shellfish foam. It’s fresh and slathered on top of some crunchy toasted bread, it’s the perfect start to the meal.
Next up, fish and chips (well sort of). A piece of perfectly pan roasted stone bass, with a crispy potato lattice and minted peas, it’s a total joy to eat. The star of the dish for me were the indulgent batter scraps. It’s finished off with a sweet vanilla veloute, a modern twist on a classic flavours but the whole dish is reminiscent of a day by the sea.
For pudding it was peach panna cotta and peanut caramel cheesecake. The panna cotta is rich and creamy, with the perfect wobble. Delightful slices of tangy peach cut through the sweetness, and a honey tuile, amaretti crumb provides the perfect crunch.
The cheesecake is a hit, with burnt orange jelly and a chocolate shard, it has everything you want in a sweet.
The whole meal is packed with food and flavours we know and love, that just make you feel really great. Hard to ask for much more.
Then it’s back to the room. Having the living area to be able to relax on the sofa with a bit of TV and a coffee was the perfect end to the evening – who doesn’t love being able to have their home comforts.
After a glorious night’s sleep, we enjoy an indulgent breakfast the next day. There is an array of pastries and breads to choose from, as well as the usual hot breakfast offerings. A homemade cherry and raspberry smoothie was delightfully refreshing.
It may be one of the grandest buildings in our wee nation’s Capital, exuding luxury and lavishness. But this grand dame knows how to make its residents comfortable, and as Coco said, that’s the key when it comes to luxury.
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