Peter Ranscombe picks five bottles to pair with recipes from Cafe Cuil on Skye.
EATING on Skye is always a pleasure, whether it’s dinner and a snooze at The Three Chimneys or those amazing Skye Pies at Glenview.
That’s why I was excited to see the recipes from Cafe Cuil in this month’s printed and digital editions of Scottish Field magazine.
I loved the creativity on show in the recipes, and the wine matching opportunities that arose.
This month, we’ve got a couple of classics and a newcomer from France, a delicious oddity from Canada, and a wee whisky chaser to serve alongside that lobster bisque…
CHÂTEAU ROUMIEU SAUTERNES 2018
Co-op
£10 for 375ml
There’s a wee coconut note in this sweet wine that will work well with the gorse in the flapjacks. Those coconut and vanilla aromas that fill the air when gorse is in bloom are so evocative of walks through the Highlands with my Gran. The Co-op’s Chateau Roumieu has all the classic spun sugar, heather honey, and tart green apple notes you’d expect from Sauternes, but with a digestive biscuit note that will complement the maltiness of the gorse. There’s also enough fresh acidity in the wine to stop the combination from becoming too cloying.
THE FALLS CANADIAN RIESLING
Aldi
£8.99
This Canadian riesling’s freshness will work well with the crab and cheese, while its touch of residual sugar will balance the chilli and paprika. Classic riesling petrol, lime, and lemon on the nose, with juicy lime and a waxy texture on the palate. Aldi has been trying hard to introduce “unusual” wines to its range, with a mix of unexpected grapes in unexpected locations. They’ve been a mixed bag for me, but this riesling made in Ontario for the German discounter by noted producer Henry of Pelham is one of the highlights. Canada is more famous for ice wines, but its east coast cool-climate whites are worthy of attention too, just like those from across the border in New York.
DOMAINE BOISSEZON GUIRAUD LES HIRONDELLES 2020
Cranstons
£8.80
A distinctive sauvignon blanc from the South of France with the acidity to slice through scallops and hollandaise sauce. When I tried this wine blind, I was convinced it was a Rhone blend, with its combination of lemon rind and peach leading me towards a mix of roussanne, marsanne, and viognier. I was blown away by the balance between its fresh acidity and concentrated fruit flavours – the lack of any tropical or green flavours at either end of the sauvignon spectrum was a real treat. Another great value white from the Languedoc region.
CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN-Â-VENT 2018
The Wine Society
£17.50
One of the best Beaujolais I’ve tried in years – just the right balance of body for the beef and acidity for the egg. It’s the old vines that make the difference here – the plants are between 60 to 100 years old, which means they produce grapes with really intense flavours. Raspberry strays into richer blackcurrant from the nose to palate, with a touch of spun sugar too. There’s far too much dull and watery entry-level Beaujolais sloshing about on the lower shelves of supermarkets – this bottle is an absolute steal at less than £20 and illustrates why it’s worth paying that wee bit extra.
TALISKER STORM
Waitrose
£44
Talisker’s classic 10 year old will work great in the recipe, but I picked Storm as the accompaniment, with the smoke dialled back to let the salted caramel shine. Red apple and honey join the caramel on the nose, but it’s the saline nature of the palate that really shines and which will work so well alongside the depth of that bisque. There’s still a depth to the peat, but I’ve always found Storm to be exceptionally well-balanced.
In case you missed it, catch-up on last month’s wines to match the recipes from Buck & Birch
Plus, read more of Peter’s wine, beer, and spirits reviews on his blog, The Grape & The Grain
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