Travel Review: A Weekend at Hilton Molino Stucky Venice

Getting to Venice 

Flying from Edinburgh to Venice is not as easy as it would seem as finding direct flights are few and far between. So, instead of turning a three hour flight into seven or eight, I took an Avanti West Coast train First Class from Edinburgh to Birmingham to catch a direct Jet2 flight.

I had travelled straight from work to the train and didn’t have time to eat in-between, but that wouldn’t be a problem because Avanti’s First Class menu was excellent. Instead of the mediocre sandwich I feared might be my dinner, I was served a delicious and warm pea-puree pasta.

After a very comforting four-or-so hour journey with multiple cups of tea to see me through, I arrived to Birmingham International Station where my friend and author, Elle Machray, picked me up as I would be staying at their house for our early flight the next morning.

While I am not a morning person, an early flight meant that we would have more time to explore the Venetian isles, and we arrived to Marco Polo airport just after 9 am. With our luggage already on our backs, we shuffled towards the water taxi and shuttles and opted for the later as neither of us felt like shuttling out more than €150 to get to our hotel when the water shuttle would do just fine. It may have taken an hour and a half to get to our hotel, but we had time and enjoyed the impromptu unguided tour of the isles.

Hilton Molino Stucky Venice

Many who have travelled to Venice may have seen the iconic red brick of the Hilton Molino Stucky building across the water. The Gothic Revival building had been constructed from two convents on Giudecca Island in the later half of the 19th century by Swiss-Venetian businessman Giovanny Stucky. It was a successful venture for a few decades until increasing workers labour rights in the 20th century meant that their practices were no longer profitable, and Stucky’s relationship with his hardworking staff strained – proven when one worker assassinated him in 1910.

Hotel Hilton Molino Stucky Venice. Photo by Andrea Sarti

In the 1950s, the factory was shut down and left empty for decades until Societa Dell’Acqua Pia Antica Marcia SpA purchased the complex in 1994 and continued the expensive renovation with Hilton Hotels in the 2000s. Now the former factory is a 5-star luxury hotel soaked in indulgence and comfort with unforgettable views over Venice.

Why tell this history in a travel review? Well, because here was our first spark of inspiration.

Room

After we enjoyed some of the Venetian views from the hotel’s executive lounge with a selection of hot and cold drinks, fresh fruit and cheese, we were ushered up to our room. As we were two friends, we opted for the Twin Molino Executive with View of Venice.

The room was layered in exquisite details from the plush rug we could sink our toes into, floor length drapes, warm colour palette and comfortable looking beds with crisp whites sheets.

When you are in Venice, you have wonderful views around the island but its rare you get to see views of Venice island itself – and from Hilton Molino Stucky, the views were nothing short of breath-taking. Even from our room, we were awed by the beauty of Dorsoduro across the Giudecca Canal.

There was a comfortable chair and table next to the window, and throughout the trip you could find me there with a cup of tea as I drew inspiration from the water taxis and boats jetting past.

Hotel Restaurants & Bars

Hotel Molino Stucky is a large hotel with many stylish spots to eat and grab and drink.

On our first night, we dined at their waterfront restaurant Aromi with stunning views over to Venice. They had an extensive menu full or fresh seafood and quality ingredients, but we decided to be a bit adventurous and tried their testing menu (€160,00 per person, € 240,00 per person with wine pairing).

The tasting menu was inspired by executive chef Ivan Fargnoli’s time in Asia, so it was a pan-Asian-Italian-French fusion of creative dishes. Some which were phenomenally delicious, and others leaned more towards interesting.

We started with lobster and langoustine tartare with cucumber and tabasco sorbet. Both the tartare and cucumber sorbet were so fresh and clean tasting. It was a brilliant way to prep our palette for the meal to come.

The soup starter was a double-boiled Asian spiced duck consommé and duck floss – a classic clear French soup but with an Asian twist. Our first course was homemade squid ink spaghetti with sea urchins and yuzu kosho bisque. This was absolutely delicious and both Elle and I devoured it. However, it took my tastebuds a few tries to adjust to the sea urchin ice cream it came with. The second course was Glacier 51 codfish fillet with chorizo powder, zucchini, spinach and seafood sauce. The cod skin was delightfully crispy on top and the foam sauce worked beautifully with the light meat.

After a mangosteen sorbet topped with gold leaf to cleanse the palette, a rich roasted lamb loin course with umeboshi, snow pea, red radish and truffle was brought out next. This was perfectly cooked and still pink in the middle while the mixed vegetables provided different levels of acidity and texture to balance the savoury meat.

Our dessert was probably the most interesting dish of the night: black garlic ice cream, cream cheese, kumquat and puffed rice. Before we had tried it, a gentlemen at the table next to us exclaimed that it was the best dessert he had ever had, so both Elle and I were intrigued and ready to set our taste buds tingling. The ice cream was creamy and surprisingly sweet, but not too sweet. The black garlic added a strong flavour that was balanced by the tartness of the kumquat. I would never had paired these ingredients together, but that why the executive chef is indeed a chef, and I am not.

There are several other atmospheric places to eat or grab a drink in the hotel. On the rooftop, across from the pool with break-taking views around Venice, is the Skyline Rooftop Bar. They have a list of cocktails that were not cheap (€23 each) but were creative, refreshing and most importantly, delicious.

I ordered the Azure Reverie made with mint and green tea cordial with Italicus and green chartreuse mint cloud. This was the perfect cocktail for those who like a fresh-tasting drink in the heat. Elle had the Serenissima Glow with Stucky’s own 1895 Venice Gardens Gin, mixed with Champagne cordial and chamomile infusion super lemon juice carbonation. This was light and gently sweet with a delicious homemade chamomile candy to garnish.

Elle, who had stayed at various Hiltons before, told me of the wonders of a Hilton Breakfast – and even they were floored by expansive and diverse breakfast buffet laid out. From baked goods like homemade focaccia, croissants and pastries, pretzels and doughnuts to savoury meats and fish to fresh fruits to traditional British and American-style breakfasts. There was truly something to find for almost anyone.

Glassmaking tour on Murano Island

Throughout the stay, the hotel always went out of their way to make our experience in Venice both comfortable and memorable. There are many exciting experiences the hotel can help arrange to explore the city and surrounding areas. Also, for a single fee of €15 per person per stay, guests can use the exclusive shuttle from the hotel to many places around Venice.

One of the tours that the hotel helped us arrange was to the Murano Glass Factory. A water taxi was booked for us and took us straight from the hotel to the factory entrance, where a tour guide met us and led us through the glassmaking workroom. We watched as father and son duo Andrea & Matea Grandine went through the steps of making a glass horse while our guide narrated. We learned that to be a Murano glassmaker, you have to be born into a family. Similar to Gondoliers.

Afterwards, we were chaperoned through the showroom to view the spectacular works of art from functional items like intricate chandeliers and lamps to impressive-looking horses and sea creatures.

Murano glassmaker father and son duo Andrea & Matea Grandine

While we had so much fun luxuriating in the hotel and exploring the wonderful Venice sights, we didn’t forget our original intention of garnering inspiration. We may not have done as much writing as we hoped, but guided by Elle who had been to Venice before, we explored many of Venice’s literary gems.

Historical Author Elle Machray’s Literary Guide to Venice:

1. Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana:
This sanctuary, located beside the bustling St. Mark’s Square, is a haven for serious bibliophiles. Visitors can register in advance to explore Venice’s most beautiful library. Entry is free, but a registration card is required.

2. Harry’s Bar:
Timeless, elegant, and brimming with literary charm, Harry’s Bar was a favourite haunt of Ernest Hemingway. Situated beside the Grand Canal, it’s the perfect spot for a post-dinner drink. I recommend trying the Bellini; it was invented there by Hemingway himself!

3. Rialto Bridge:
More than just a tourist destination, the Rialto Bridge, also known as the Bridge of Sighs, served as the route for the infamous 18th-century writer and lothario, Giacomo Casanova, on his way to prison. Be prepared for crowds and don’t forget your camera; it’s definitely worth capturing!

4. Scriba:
A must-visit for book lovers, Scriba offers not only bookbinding services but also personalised wax seals, intricate notebooks, writing accessories, and the occasional globe. It truly feels like a paradise for literary enthusiasts.

5. Libreria Acqua Alta:
No longer a hidden gem, Libreria Acqua Alta has rightfully earned its place among Venice’s best bookshops. With a staircase made from encyclopaedias and books piled high in bathtubs and gondolas, it feels like stepping into a bookish dreamscape. Keep an eye out for the resident cat curled up among the stacks.

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