If Cole Porter is to be believed then it doesn’t matter what time of year you visit Paris, you’re pretty much guaranteed to love it.
Chef Nico Simeone has decided to transport diners to Paris in the Fall for the next six weeks with his latest menu at his Six by Nico restaurant in Edinburgh (and also available in Glasgow. The Paris-themed menu includes some traditional French classics and as you might expect, a few modern twists.
Despite the chilly evening and it being close to a time when I might otherwise be already in my PJs, the restaurant on Hanover Street is packed full of diners. We are shown to our seats with a view of the kitchen and introduced to the new menu.
Dining out on a set menu when you’re with an old friend that you’ve not seen in way too long is perfect; there are very few decisions to be made and minimal time spent reading a menu when you could be enjoying their company and the ambience of the restaurant.
We opt to enjoy an aperitif ahead of beginning our culinary wander through the bistros of Paris.
From Paris with Love is a perfect fusion of The City of Lights and Auld Reekie. A deliciously boozy blend of Edinburgh gin, blackberry and thyme cordial, citrus and fizz.
It was late and hunger drove us to order the snacks to start. We didn’t regret it. Crispy blocks of pomme frites with parmesan and truffle and fresh sourdough with an outrageously decadent whipped pork fat butter vanished in the blink of an eye.
Course number one was one of the aforementioned classics. French onion soup with a comte foam and toasted sourdough. The salty, deeply savoury onion soup was hidden below the nutty and buttery foam. We loved the combination of the cheesy foam and sourdough crisp, which proved much easier to eat than the traditional giant cheesy crouton floating on top, but equally delicious.
Number two was another Parisian staple, beef tartare with little bubbles of cured egg yolk, cornichons and crisp bread. Fresh and zingy, we both declared this to be tres bien. The dish was paired with a dry Château St Pierre, Cuvee Tradition Rose from Provence and while we both enjoyed the wine, we weren’t 100% convinced about this match.
Chestnut veloute
The third course was a triumph in every way. The chestnut velouté with celeriac, tommé agnolotti, apple and lovage was earthy, delicious and perfectly seasoned. Paired with a gloriously light red from Hungary we only wished we’d kept some bread to mop up the remnants of this perfectly autumnal dish.
Hake with coco bean, morteau sausage and saffron rouille was number four and we loved the punch of flavour from the rich and salty bouillabaisse sauce that came with this meaty chunk of fish.
Breast of Duck
Number five was undoubtedly our highlight. A generous slice of beautifully pink duck breast with a rich truffle and puy lentil fricassee which I could have eaten all day long, parsley root in both puree and crisp form, preserved quince and blackberry. The crisp parsley root added texture to what was really a faultless plate.
Baked savarin
Approaching the end of our Parisian sojourn, course six was a baked savarin, this delightful mini sponge cake was perfectly crisp on the outside and sweet and yielding below, filled with a rich and creamy vanilla ganache the flavours of pear, candied hazelnuts and champagne made this a really noteworthy dessert.
On a chilly Wednesday evening in the capital of Scotland we had spent a couple of hours exploring the winding boulevards and famous cuisine of the French capital. For a foodie Francophile this menu is not to be missed.
Paris runs from now until December 12. The menu is priced at £32 per person with the option to enjoy a selected wine pairing for an additional £27.
Six by Nico, 97 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ / 1132 Argyle Street, Glasgow, G3 8TD
0131 225 5050 / 0141 334 5661
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