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Earthy tones of green, red and ochre quietly ooze from the jewellery in front of me. However, on closer inspection I see smoky greys, glorious emeralds and vibrant pinks mixed into the polished stones that have been used to make these beautiful bracelets and pendants.
Scottish Pebble Jewellery is not renowned for being overtly glamorous or sexy but, of any jewellery, it is possibly the easiest to wear. For antique jewellery, it is also very keenly priced. The word ‘pebble’ can be a little misleading, but was used as a general term to describe the agates that were mined here in Scotland and used to create this range of adornments.
‘I tend to refer to it as Scottish Agate Jewellery as it is more than the pebbles, it is quartz and amethysts too that make up Scottish pebble jewellery,’ admits Clare Blatherwick, head of Jewellery and Silver with Bonhams Scotland.
‘The primary pieces we see coming to the market are from the mid-19th century up to around the First World War,’ says Clare. ‘Queen Victoria really kick started the love of all things Scottish, and that included this jewellery. She imposed strong rules on what was to be worn at court during the day and evening – diamonds were not to be worn during the day, so much more day jewellery was made using semi precious stones.’
She adds: ‘Scottish pebble jewellery is affordable and functional and is a market that allows you to buy quality jewellery at an affordable level. It is very wearable because it has natural earthy colours, and looks fantastic with a tweed jacket. The colours remind you of the heather and mountains. I have even seen Scottish pebble jewellery collars worn with evening gowns at Highland balls.’
While agates are found all over the world, the colours and patterns found in the Scottish stones make them stand out. These agates are found in many quarters of Scotland, with the ‘Blue Hole’ in Usan, near Montrose, being regarded as one of the foremost areas for collecting. Stones can be found on the Scottish islands, as well as in areas of Ayrshire and Perthshire, not forgetting the distinctive pink and grey granite found in Aberdeenshire. The ‘pebbles’ vary from faceted quartz and bloodstone to jasper, though it is those pieces of jewellery made with gold that tend to carry the highest prices at auction.
‘Around one percent of the Scottish pebble jewellery was made with gold, so these pieces are very important,’ says Clare Blatherwick. ‘The finer gold pieces were made by people like Marshall & Son or Brook & Sons, so these are good names to look out for.’
Bonhams will include a collection of Scottish pebble jewellery in its Scottish Sale in August – they already have a number of pieces consigned for the sale, including a Victorian bracelet with various agates and citrines mounted in gold, holding an estimate of £300-£500. An early 20th century gold Scottish plaid brooch set with various quartz – a gift from HM King Edward VII – is estimated at £400-£600.
Previous sales have revealed a worldwide interest in Scottish jewellery, with a suite of Victorian gold mounted pebble jewellery selling to a buyer in Florence for a hammer price of £1,300, and a Scottish pebble bracelet being bought by a New York bidder for a hammer price of £380 in last year’s Scottish sale. In Bonhams’
December sale a gold mounted Scottish pebble bracelet sold for a hammer price of £280.
Men’s jewellery – such as kilt pins – can also be found made with agates, with the colours toning well with tartan. The keen price achieved for all Scottish pebble jewellery is a factor that Clare Blatherwick feels is lost on many prospective buyers. ‘Pebble jewellery is such a good starting point for anyone’s collection of jewellery,’ she says. ‘There are rare pieces out there to be found, such as earrings or complete suites of jewellery. If someone had a Scottish pebble jewellery ring in good condition then it would be rare – I have never come across one. Scottish pebble jewellery has been slightly underrated but there are people internationally recognising the importance of Scottish jewellery now.’
Do you think the buildings now being constructed in Scotland are of a lesser quality than those of an earlier era











