But when it first appeared on the scene in the 1800s, the tweed, like the tartan, played a fundamental role in unifying people, as well as the more practical job of camouflaging its hunter-gatherers. Indeed, the camouflage uniform worn by armies across the world owes its origins to the tweed.

Woollen mills were introduced in Scotland after the highland and agricultural reforms of the early 19th century, to create additional revenue to that generated in agriculture. But, more specifically, the introduction of the estate tweed was connected with the arrival of Royalty.

When Queen Victoria and Prince Albert bought the Balmoral Estate in Aberdeenshire in 1848, one of the first things they did was design the Balmoral Tweed. Dark blue with white sprinkled through with crimson, and grey in overall appearance, it was intended to bear a close similarity with the granite scenery of Aberdeenshire. Shooting and fishing were obviously popular sports and, by dressing all the men in the same tweed they were better camouflaged for hunting in the local terrain, as well as identifiable as one group.

Of course, the Royal family enjoyed a lifestyle the aristocracy wanted to emulate and, subsequently, many English country-gents were soon buying or renting land in Scotland. Whilst clan chiefs and Scottish landowners enjoyed the city life with their newfound income (by 1841, 90 highland estates had shooting tenants paying £125 a month or more), sportsmen in the countryside were hunting, shooting and fishing. All these sports required professional men – stalkers and ghillies – to manage the estates, and the clan tradition that the employer provided tartan garments for his employees was something the new tenants were keen to do. However, because they had no right to wear the national dress, they opted for the tweed instead.

Johnstons of Elgin’s comprehensive book Scottish Estate Tweeds

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