WORDS: Lynn Bennett-Mackenzie

Elabuga is known in Russian as the city that always welcomes you. That was certainly the case when fellow artist Vicky Stonebridge and I travelled there recently to attend an international arts symposium called “Breath of the Epos”. We were invited as professional artists whose artwork complemented the themes of legend, myth and culture; flattered to be invited to represent my country, and pleased to visit a remote corner of Russia that I would never otherwise visit.

We journeyed from our West coast homes by car, bus and three flights to reach the city, which is 560 miles South East of Moscow and has a population of 70,000. We were housed comfortably in one of the hotels. Elabuga is an upcoming city, working hard at its tourism industry. The historic old town is a large living preservation area with many museums, subsections and beautiful old buildings painted in wonderful colors. They are truly a delight to the eye. There is a real sense of pride and purpose here for both history and art.

The old Russian town has held four previous conferences like this one, although this is the first edition where international artists are invited. Our only costs for the trip are for flights and visas; the actual symposium is being paid for by our inviters. During our visit, we are taken on guided excursions to places such as Elabuga’s “Devil” tower overlooking the city, the museum of district medicine, the library of the Silver Age, the memorial house of poet Marina Tsvetaeva and the Kama National Park, into which Ivan Shiskin used to carry his heavy metal easel to paint ‘plain air’. Another highlight is a restricted police military school, where locals rarely get to peek. We are accompanied by translators, as many of the artists and organizers don’t speak English, and our Russian only extends to a few basic words. This is frustrating from time to time, but the international language of indicating and acting helps. We also visit a show by local artist Bulat Gilvanov. All of his works are based on one story, but the range of styles and subject he uses is staggering. The freedom to create from within is apparent here.

Lynn Bennett-Mackenzie posing in front of her "Timeless Eye"

The event lasts for ten days and gives thirty-three artists from around the world the chance to create two artworks based on the theme. We are allowed to use a variety of media including oil, acrylic, printmaking, batik, pastels and handmade paper. Our works will become property of the City Gallery and Museum and will be used for travelling exhibitions, books and general publicity. The artists at the conference are all established and well known in their fields, aging from 23 to 75 years old. The artworks coming to life are all figurative and quite stunning. It is inspiring to be amongst such creativity. Personally, my work flows better towards the end of the day. It’s challenging to work in different environments, with the paint reacting differently due to climatic differences. Oil paint, despite adding more linseed oil, dries virtually overnight at temperatures of over 40°C, and watercolor is even worse.

During the event, we are interviewed for magazines, TV, newspapers, as well as having to make short speeches at the opening of both the symposium and art show, all while we constantly feel the lens of cameras pointed at us. We are treated like minor celebrities, which is all a bit surreal. The minister of Culture for the Republic of Tatarstan, the vice president of Tatarstan, and the Director of the museum preservation area are amongst the officials at the opening of the show. We are required to make a short speech, which is absolutely nerve wracking. Finally, we are presented with souvenirs, certificates and a traditional Tatar hat.

The experience has been very intense, like being dropped into a bubble and then reluctantly pulled back out again. However, we made many new friends and we will carry the whole thing with us for life. We will certainly take inspiration from it. We may think we are free in the West, but in that small part of Russia the spirit is definitely allowed to flourish more. We look forward to returning some day and certainly hope to attend more of these gatherings in the future – the bug has bitten.