Gamekeepers past and present recalled days of old as they enjoyed a pre-Christmas lunch in a bothy in a remote Perthshire glen
If you want to do remote and romantic this Christmas then Dunan Mountain Bothy on the Ardtalnaig Estate in the heart of Highland Perthshire is hard to beat.
This is indeed a magical place with a long and interesting history. Owned by Pete Gottgens who is also mine host at the Ardeonaig Hotel, the Dunan Bothy has given shelter to many a keeper down the decades who sought refuge from the elements in the remote Gleann a Chilleine. Five miles from the nearest tar road this is a truly wild place with no other habitation within miles and no electricity. But what it does have, it has in abundance: peace, tranquillity, fabulous views and changing and dramatic weather – and, on my recent visit, fabulous food.
Heating is by way of a wood burning stove, while a Rayburn range provides hot water and cooking facilities. With no electricity, lighting is with oil lamps and candles. Following the recent refurbishment to the bothy, Pete Gottgens decided to entertain some of the old and not so old keepers, who have used the isolated cottage over the years, to a pre-Christmas lunch and let them appreciate the changes and the touch of luxury that he has brought to Dunan.
By the time the guests arrived the wood burning stove was warm and inviting and the aroma from the kitchen was tempting; all thanks to Pete, who had been at the bothy from early morning preparing for his guests.

Beetroot cured salmon
A great Christmas special at Ardeonaig, this dish with its festive colour looks great on the Christmas table. It is simple to prepare and is done the night before
Serves 8
4 pre-cooked beetroot
2 tbsp vinegar
2 heaped tablespoons chopped dill
Grated rind of 1 lemon
800g salmon fillet sliced into 8 pieces roughly 2cm in width
Method
Blend the beetroot, vinegar, dill and lemon well. Spread half of the mixture on a tray. Place the salmon fillets on top and cover with remaining beetroot mixture. Wrap with cling film and place in the fridge overnight. When ready to serve remove the excess beetroot mixture from the salmon fillets and enjoy with some homemade bread.
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Butternut squash soup with roasted pumpkin seeds
Serves 8
2 butternut squash, peeled, seeds removed and chopped
4 onions finely chopped
150g butter
1 litre vegetable stock
75g finely grated parmesan
100g pumpkin seeds
Method
Sweat onions in melted butter. Add butternut squash and allow to colour. Pour in vegetable stock and cook until butternut squash is soft. Blend until smooth. Fold in parmesan and heat until thickened. Toast pumkin seeds in a dry frying pan. Serve the soup in bowls with the pumkin seeds sprinkled on top.
Enjoy with walnut or olive bread.
Ardeonaig celebration of Scottish game
Serves 8
600g loin of venison
1kg pheasant meat – leg and breast
100g diced carrots 100g diced celery
1 heaped tbsp chives
1 heaped tbsp thyme
2 egg whites
150g caul fat – you can get this from any butcher but it can be left out if you prefer
50g butter
Method
Combine pheasant meat, carrots, celery, herbs and egg whites in a blender. Lay out a triple layer of cling film on the work surface slightly larger than the venison loin. Spread the caul fat over this and then cover with the pheasant mousse about ½ cm thick. Place the fillet on top and roll up from the long side to make a long sausage shape, wrapping tightly with the cling film. Poach in a roasting tin half-filled with water for 30 mins at 85ºC. It is important the water does NOT boil. Turn over half way through cooking. When finished leave to cool and chill well in the fridge.
To finish melt the butter in a large frying pan and brown the meat on all sides. Slice 2cm thick. Roast rib beef This is the ideal way to cook a rib of beef especially at Christmas time as you can do the sizzle part of the roasting the night before and once the turkey comes out of the oven the rib of beef can go in and only needs 20mins. 1.7kg beef on the bone 5 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper Method Rub the joint liberally with olive oil, salt and pepper.
Place in a very hot pre-heated oven – ideally 280˚C for 25 mins. Take out and leave to rest. This can even be overnight. To finish off roast again at 200˚C for 20 mins. Rest for 15 minutes before carving.

Roast mallard with braised red cabbage
Serves 8
Mallard are fabulous to eat at this time of year – we’re lucky enough to be able to use those on our Ardtalnaig Estate.
2 mallard duck
12 sage leaves
2 whole oranges washed well
16 cloves
Braised cabbage
½ medium red cabbage finely shredded
½ cup sultanas
1 cup port
1 cup water
1 cox apple, peeled and chopped finely
1tsp allspice
100g butter
Method
Place all the ingredients for the cabbage in a pan and bring slowly to simmering point. Cover the pan and reduce the heat, cooking it very slowly for about an hour until the apple has almost melted. Meanwhile season the cavity of each duck with salt, pepper. Push 8 cloves into the skin of each orange and place one in the cavity of each duck along with 6 sage leaves.
Rub the skin of the duck with olive oil and some salt and pepper. Roast for 18 minutes at 200ºC. Rest for 5-10 minutes then carve and serve with the cabbage. When the cabbage is ready stir in 100g butter and allow to melt just before serving

Crème brûlée with poached pears
This is a great alternative dessert for Christmas but it will go equally well with Chrismas pudding. The poached pears cut through the richness of the crème brûlée. Another welcome dish which can be prepared in advance
Serves 8
Crème brûlée
220g egg yolks
200g caster sugar
1litre double cream
1 vanilla pod split in two lengthways
200g granulated sugar (approximately)
Poached pears
4 pears peeled
50g chopped root ginger
500ml water
250g granulated sugar
1 vanilla pod split lengthways
Method
Bring the cream and vanilla to the boil then remove from heat. Mix the sugar and yolks. Remove and discard the vanilla pod from the cream and pour this over the yolk mixture stirring well. Pass through a sieve into a heatproof bowl and bake in a bain marie at 110ºC for 40 mins until set. For the poached pears. Boil until the mixture is reduced by 10%. Place the pears upright in the pan and simmer gently for 4-6 minutes.
Do not allow the mixture to boil and only cook until the pears are just soft. Leave to cool to room temperature. Just before serving sprinkle the custard mixture with enough sugar until it is coated with a ½cm layer of sugar and place under a hot grill or use a blow torch until golden brown.

Panaforte
Serves 4-6
75g hazelnuts
75g almonds
75g pistachios
80g dried apricots
80g dried apples
60g candied mixed peel
Zest of 1 lemon
70g plain flour
1 tbsp cocoa powder
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground coriander seeds
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp ground allspice
Pinch white pepper
150g caster sugar
4 tbsp honey 50g unsalted butter 3 tbsp icing sugar 150g good quality chocolate with 70% cocoa solids
Method
Line 23cm spring-form cake tin with baking paper and grease well with butter. Toast nuts under a hot grill turning them so they brown on all sides. Slice dried fruit into strips. Combine nuts, fruits and zest in a large bowl, stir in flour, cocoa and spices. Heat sugar, honey and butter in a saucepan and gently bring to the boil.
Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Meanwhile melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water. Pour syrup into nut mixture then add the chocolate and mix well then pour into the cake tin and smooth surface. Pete’s tip - The mixture may stiffen fast so work quickly at this stage. Bake at 150ºC for 35 mins.
Allow to cool completely before removing from tin. Dust top heavily with icing sugar
field facts
Ardeonaig Hotel & Restaurant, South Loch Tay Road, Ardeonaig, Perthshire FK21 8SU Tel: 01567 820 400
Dunan Mountain Bothy, Ardtalnaig Estate, Ardeonaig, Perthshire FK21 8SU Tel 01567 820 400
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