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To the lighthouse
His love of islands and of lighthouses took radio presenter Richard Evans on an unusual pilgrimage this year

A lighthouse enthusiast has bagged a lifetime experience following an epic journey to the Orkneys earlier this year. Richard Evans from West Sussex led a group of 14 enthusiasts around the islands, visiting seven lighthouses in seven days. A community radio presenter and father of two children, Richard stepped into the breach after the organiser withdrew last Christmas.

Having paid a deposit in May 2008, Richard was determined the event should take place and he took full responsibility. Apart from lighthouses, he’s studied remote Scottish islands for over 35 years, so this trip would combine both interests handsomely.

Island dreams

‘It fulfilled dreams for me and others in the group, some who had travelled from Holland and Germany to meet up in the Orkneys, which are made up of over 70 islands’ he said.

‘The weather was remarkable, most days being sunny, but with so few trees on the islands the wind can tear through you so we were ‘suited and booted’ every day for warmth and protection.’

The participants on the trip shared the same passion for lighthouses and were all members of the Association of Lighthouse Keepers (ALK), started 21 years ago by two former keepers but now open to everyone.

Flocking to Auskerry

Local boatmen were used to reach the remote island of Auskerry where they met the sheep farmer who lives there for eight months of the year, his family and the flock of North Ronaldsay sheep. Lighthouses still fulfil a vital role as aids to navigation even with ships’ technological advances.

They are operated automatically and monitored from the Northern Lighthouse Board headquarters in Edinburgh.

Muckle Skerry

‘Deciding to travel to Muckle Skerry (the largest island in the Pentland Skerries group of four tiny rock islands) was a bold idea’ said Richard. ‘There was some doubt initially whether the boat trip might be aborted because of a south south easterly wind, however the outward three mile journey was smooth. I hired lifejackets for the crossing across the notorious Pentland Firth – known for the strength of its tides, being among some of the fastest in the world. Our ferryman, a lobster fisherman who had 300 lobster pots in the area around these islands, dropped us off an hour to explore this fascinating island with its three small lochans and cairn. On the return 30 minute journey, we experienced a swell and the force of the tides which give rise to ‘overfalls’ and tidal races and were glad when we reached terra firma.’

Old Beacon, North Ronaldsay.

North Ronaldsay

Generally there is no access into lighthouses, although on North Ronaldsay and Start Point there are attendant keepers. The trip to North Ronaldsay (the most northerly and windswept island of the Orkneys) involved a short flight of 15 minutes, from Kirkwall, in a plane carrying only seven passengers, so the group was split into two, travelling on two consecutive days. The lighthouse, built in 1854, is the tallest land-based light in the British Isles and stands at the north end of the island. Keeper Mr Billy Muir gave the group a guided tour of the tower and its windy balcony, and a talk about the nearby historic lighthouse, known as the Old Beacon, which is encased in scaffolding for repairs and was recently selected for the BBC Restoration series.

Sanday

The next island on the itinerary was Sanday. The island Ranger gave the group a minibus guided tour including a visit to the tidal islet of Start Point. Another keeper met them and showed them the best way to cross the slippery stone causeway, exposed at low tide twice a day, which leads to the unusual black and white striped lighthouse.

Hoy by boat

The island of Hoy was reached by ferry from Stromness when the first seven people went to North Ronaldsay on the small plane. The following day, the other seven group members swopped around and went by ferry to the isle of Graemsay where there are two lighthouses, Hoy High and Hoy Low.

Copinsay.

Copinsay

On the final day in the Orkneys, a trip was taken by minibus to Brough Head. ‘We walked to the tidal island of Birsay with its low castellated lighthouse at low tide,’ says Richard. ‘In the afternoon we enjoyed the boat journey to Copinsay, owned by the RSPB and famous for its kittiwakes, guillemots and razorbills.

field facts

For more Information on Scottish Lighthouses and the Northern Lighthouse Board check out www.nlb.org.uk

Association of Lighthouse Keepers, www.alk.org.uk


 


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