There is little doubt that given good weather Scotland ranks amongst the most scenic countries on the planet. As a frequent traveller on the A9 I occasionally stop off at Dunkeld. On a recent visit I decided to spend a bit more time in this special part of the country and savour its surroundings. It was a day of beautiful sunshine, and Perthshire, otherwise known as Big Tree Country, was sparkling. Although I confined myself to the environs of Dunkeld and Birnam, I was truly impressed by the beautiful views of the Tay as I drove through Caputh and Murthly. Dunkeld and Birnam are quintessentially Scottish towns set on opposite banks of the River Tay. The Tay itself is one of Scotland’s major attractions, as the longest river in the country, although some may say the claim is disputed. Its worldwide reputation for fishing brings anglers from across the globe to test their skills on this mighty river.

This is the heart of Perthshire’s Big Tree Country and the evidence is all around – lush green and verdant in the summer months and golden brown in the autumn.

Spanning the Tay

Whether travelling north or south, if you go through Dunkeld you will pass over its famous A listed bridge which was described as Telford’s ‘finest Highland bridge’ by poet laureate Robert Southey, writing soon after its completion. Spanning the Tay, where water levels can rise dramatically, the design of the bridge took this into account. Construction began in the spring of 1803, with the sandstone for the arches being quarried on the Murthly estate just south west of Dunkeld, while the stone for the rubble work was sourced in quarries near Birnam.

More than 250 workmen including masons, carpenters, smiths and labourers were employed during the construction of the bridge, which opened to the public in 1808. The history of Dunkeld is thought to date back to the 6th century when it is believed that a monastery was founded near the river. It is certainly known that Kenneth MacAlpin, the first King of Scotland, moved the bones of Saint Columba from Iona to a church near Dunkeld around 850AD, thus establishing it as the first ecclesiastical capital of medieval Scotland.

Making a fresh start

One of the town’s most visited buildings is Dunkeld Cathedral. The present building was begun in the 12th century with additions right up to the 16th century. Today it is part ruin, part parish church, and its glorious setting by the river attracts visitors to walk through its ancient hallowed cloisters. Not immune from the clan warfare of the past, Dunkeld’s medieval town was burnt to the ground in 1689 during the Battle of Dunkeld between the Jacobite forces of Bonnie Dundee and the local garrison of Cameronians. From the total destruction of that time the picturesque little houses of Dunkeld, which we see today, were built in the early 1700s.

The charm of much of today’s Dunkeld owes much to the efforts of the National Trust for Scotland, under whose auspices many of these terraced houses in Cathedral Street, the Cross and High Street were restored to provide homes for local people. Another ancient Dunkeld landmark is the Atholl Memorial Fountain, erected to the memory of the 6th Duke of Atholl, who died aged 50. He spent most of his life in Dunkeld where both he and his wife, Duchess Anne, were deeply concerned about the welfare of the local people. Today’s plush Hilton Dunkeld was built by the 7th Duke as a summer house for his wife – indeed a time of caring dukes. With ample car parking at both ends of the town, the best way to explore is on foot. There is much to do and see with various speciality shops, restaurants, galleries and hotels throughout the town.

The seven arched bridge links Dunkeld with its smaller but no less interesting neighbour, Birnam. Most will be familiar with the mention of Birnam, where a wooded hill, 12 miles from Dunsinane, is supposed to have been that in Shakespeare’s ‘Macbeth’. Close to the town is the famous Birnam Oak, reputedly the last surviving tree from Shakespeare’s Birnam Wood. It has been claimed by historians that the wood was used to camouflage Malcolm Canmore’s army before their battle with Macbeth at Dunsinane. Beatrix Potter, the famous author of children’s stories, holidayed frequently in the Birnam area during the late 19th century and is said to have written ‘The Tale of Peter Rabbit’ on one of her trips to Birnam.

Birnam Institute

Perhaps the centre of attraction in the village is the Birnam Institute, a community run arts, performance and conference centre which also houses a Beatrix Potter Exhibition and Garden. With a full programme of events and exhibitions there is plenty to suit all tastes. The Scottish Chamber Orchestra will give a concert on 24 July, Scots songwriter Karine Polwart is due to entertain on 31st July and Siamsoir, the Edinburgh based Celtic dance company are booked for 13 August. In keeping with the contemporary Birnam Institute, local architect Robin Baker is keen to promote an ecological ethos in his designs, as well as keeping a genuine interest in community and cultural development, His work includes the David Douglas Pavilion in the Explorers Garden at nearby Pitlochry Festival Theatre, designed as a tribute to the world famous 19th century plant hunter from Perthshire. In doing so he was raising awareness of the use of sustainable homegrown timber. In fact the main structural posts and beams, the roof decking, wall framing, cladding and viewing deck of the pavilion are all in untreated Douglas fir.

The Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre is a must to view the ospreys from the observation hides by the loch shore. Also worth a visit is The Hermitage, a beautiful 18th century wild tree garden set along the waterfalls, rapids and swirling pools of the River Braan about a mile west of Dunkeld. Ossian’s Hall is a picturesque folly overlooking the gorge, built in 1758 for the Duke of Atholl as a surprise by his nephew. This is an area in the geographical centre of Scotland, which is a perfect place from which to explore. It has a wealth of activity for all including golf, fishing, off roading, water sports, horse riding, cycling and walking. But whatever you choose to do in Dunkeld and Birnam, however long you stay, there is an appeal about this part of Perthshire which will ensure that you return to savour a warm welcome from the heart of Perthshire.

field facts

For further information on the area and on Dunkeld and Birnam Tourist Association visit

www. dunkeldandbirnam. co.uk