Least known but worth visiting

Cubbie Roo Castle, Orkney

The very name itself is enough to make you want to visit. Cubbie Roo Castle takes its name from Orkney folklore’s best known giant, Cubbie Roo himself, a creature of such monstrous proportions that he was said to use Orkney’s many islands as stepping stones! A small ferry trip of four minutes from the island of Rousay will get you to the remote small island of Wyre to see what some believe to be the giants’ home and what’s reckoned to be Scotland’s oldest stone castle, dating from 1145. Cubbie Roo’s exploits are renowned in Orkney, including his failed attempts to build bridges between islands. The stones were always breaking and falling, becoming well known landmarks such as Cobbie Roo’s Burden, which is actually a chambered cairn. For centuries many believed Cubbie Roo was based on the 12th century Norse chief Kolbein Hruga, the castle’s actual builder according to Norse Sagas, but it’s now suggested that they are completely different characters. Go see for yourself this beautiful island, childhood home to Scottish poet Edwin Muir, and visit Wyre’s Heritage Centre to find out more about Cubbie Roo and if he is indeed the castle’s giant.

Castle Tioram, Moidart

You need to get your timing right when you visit this remote west coast castle, or you’ll get wet feet. Perched on a rocky island where the waters of the River Shiel empty into Loch Moidart, the ruins of 13th century Castle Tioram can only be reached at low tide across a sandy spit (tioram is the Gaelic word for ‘dry’). It may look like a toy fort, but this was a serious stronghold in the days when seaways, lochs and rivers were the way to get around Scotland. For centuries it was home to troublesome Clanranald chieftains, and in 1544 one of them angered the Scottish Crown so much that the Duke of Argyll bombarded Castle Tioram from both land and sea – you can still see damage. In the 17th century, John the 12th chief was reported to have been involved in piracy, and in old age was renowned for taking potshots from the ramparts at anything that moved. His son Donald was notorious for his cruel temper and is said to have executed three servants, without proof, for stealing silver – two men and a woman. The men were hanged, the story goes, but the woman was tied to a rock in the estuary by her hair, and drowned. Spookily, a buried hoard of Elizabethan silver was found when a path was being made along the shore of Loch Moidart in the late 19th century, though as the coins pre-date Donald by some 100 years, the story may still be myth. Mull over this gruesome tale as you walk round what is today a charming ruin, but stay clear of falling masonry; the walls carry warnings.

Most romantic ruins

Dunnottar Castle,

Aberdeenshire I defy any of you to consider this location anything other than utterly spectacular. When you get to Dunnottar Castle, just south of Aberdeen, what you’ll find is a castle ruin projecting out to sea in the most dramatic fashion, with a history no less spectacular than its surroundings. A rather precarious, narrow path takes you up to the entrance of the castle – just stop now and enjoy the smells and sounds of the sea. I can’t think of anywhere better for a picnic on a summer’s day. The scenery and natural location to me are pretty much unbeatable. And just think, you’re sharing a spot once occupied by William Wallace and Mary Queen of Scots! Dunnottar was probably always used as a fortification, although it’s first mentioned in the fifth century when St Ninian founded a church there. It played a dramatic part in the events of Cromwell’s invasion of Scotland in 1651 when the castle held out for eight months under siege from Cromwell’s forces, saving the Scottish crown jewels for Charles II. Of the many stories, one claims the jewels were safely smuggled out by a local minister’s wife. More harrowing is the account of the castle serving as a prison during the oppression of the covenanters, when 160 prisoners were kept there for attending illegal religious services. They were enclosed in a dark, damp dungeon known as Whig’s Vault for about two months before being taken to Leith to renounce the covenant or be transported to America as slaves. The castle’s dramatic situation was the location for film director Franco Zeffirelli’s Hamlet starring Mel Gibson and Glenn Close in 1990. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction and a great day out.

Kilchurn Castle, Argyll

Travelling down the shores of Loch Awe in Argyll on a summer’s day, it’s very difficult to keep your eyes on the road. You’ll catch sight of a stunning castle ruin almost as if it’s jutting out of the water. If Eilean Donan is one of Scotland’s most photographed castles, Castle Kilchurn, ancestral home of the Campbells of Glenorchy, must come a close second. Today it sits on a low rocky mound in the loch but at one time it was on an island. Situated on the edge of Loch Awe, its walls and turrets have guarded the approach to the loch for 500 years. It’s been well tested in battle, once to garrison Hanoverian troops during the troubled days of the Jacobite Risings. At one time it was a very grand home, but gradually it lost all domestic and military importance and in 1770 its roof as well. For many years the castle lay neglected and overgrown, inhabited only by the odd eccentric, including an elderly housekeeper known as Kate nan Con (Kate of the Dogs). Today the castle’s been successfully restored by Historic Scotland and there’s safe access on foot from the A85 or by a steamer from Loch Awe station pier.

Most beautiful location

Eilean Donan, North West Highlands

It’s official, Eilean Donan near Kyle of Lochalsh is Scotland’s most photographed castle, resulting in an iconic image recognisable world-wide. My own favourite snapshot is of my colleague, the BBC’s Frieda Morrison, and myself enjoying a freshly caught salmon on the shores of Loch Duich, with the castle in the background – tea cooked for us by, no less, survival expert and TV broadcaster Ray Mears, who was as much in awe of the wonderful location as we were. Named after a 6th century Irish saint, the castle stands bold and upright on the shores of Loch Duich on a site that has been fortified for well over 800 years. According to historians, it was built in the reign of Alexander II to protect the area of Kintail from the Vikings. Apparently it was given to the Clan Mackenzie as a thank-you from Robert the Bruce for their help in the battle of Bannockburn. They in turn gave it to the MacRaes, who became constables of the castle, keeping law and order in the area. The castle is somewhat of a film star and has been used in many productions over the years including Highlander, starring Christopher Lambert and Sean Connery. If you get a chance to visit, you’ll see why.

Castle Stalker, Argyll

My favourite castle locations usually have a backdrop of rugged West coast scenery. Castle Stalker, near Appin, is no exception. This simple but wonderfully picturesque tower sits on its own island in the middle of Loch Laich, and was designed only to be reached by boat. I’m biased, coming from Argyll, but this romantic castle sits within some of the best scenery in Scotland! There’s something very haunting and atmospheric about Castle Stalker, which was built for the Stewarts of Appin in the 15th century at the behest of James V. By the early 17th century, it was in Campbell ownership and in 1631 was reconstructed at the upper levels and reroofed. By 1886 it was in Stewart hands again but was once again lost, this time in forfeiture for Jacobite allegiance. It finally returned to the Stewarts in the 20th century. Like Eilean Donan, it too stars as a film location, most notably in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. The castle’s best viewed on the approach to the village of Appin on the A828 Oban-Fort William road. Why not pop into the nearby café for some home baking and a coffee amidst those wonderful views? Now that sounds like one good reason to get back to Argyll.

Most haunted

Castle Fyvie, Aberdeenshire

It’s one of Scotland’s most magnificent castles and lovers of ghostly goings on will be delighted to hear it has plenty of ghosts and spooky tales, secret haunted rooms, rambling corridors, weeping stones and eerie staircases. Are you brave enough to visit a cursed castle near Turriff in Aberdeenshire? Fyvie, one of the finest examples of 16th century baronial architecture, started as a Royal hunting lodge. It has five majestic towers which are said to represent the families who have lived there and who, over the centuries, helped create this stronghold. William the Lion held a parliament here and Robert the Bruce used it as a base in 1308 when he crushed the Comyns to strengthen his hold on the crown. And there are a few other residents who are still causing a bit of a stir. Dame Lillias Drummond, or ‘The Green Lady’ as she is now referred to, was so upset when her husband remarried his lover shortly after her death that she wept outside their room on their wedding night. When the couple got up in the morning they discovered the ghost had scratched her name upside down on their window sill. She has haunted the castle ever since and it’s said when she appears something terrible happens at the castle. Some say she was starved to death by her husband, others that she died of a broken heart. Whatever you believe the signature is still there and her spirit frequently returns to the stairways! Another ‘Grey Lady’ was discovered by workmen who came across her skeleton in the 1930s. Things quickly took a spooky turn for the worse in the castle and the ghostly disturbances didn’t die down until she was put back exactly where she was found. If you can’t quite face entering this haunted site, you could always take a balloon flight over the grounds instead!

Glamis Castle, Angus

The devil himself played cards here, and a witch from here was burned at the stake – just some of the grisly tales surrounding Glamis Castle. The castle in Tayside has the reputation of having more dark, haunted secrets than any other castle in Britain. One of the biggest legends took place in a secret chamber where the 4th Earl of Crawford played cards with the devil. Horrifying sounds came from the room, but when one of the servants tried to peer through the hole they were blasted by a sheet of flame. Legend suggests the devil and the Earl have been playing cards ever since. And there are other tales of a grey ghost who roams the grounds. She’s believed to be the Lady Glamis who became Lady Campbell after her husband’s death and had charges of witchcraft wrongly brought against her by James V. She was burned alive at the stake and has haunted the castle ever since. Other ghostly goings on include loud knocking from a secret room and a ghostly image of a small boy who is thought to have been an ill treated servant in the 18th century. There’s blood stains which can’t be removed from floorboards and a strange figure known as Jack the Runner who darts about the castle grounds. Glamis, it seems, has a terrible, sinister secret and those that have stumbled upon it have come to an untimely end. I think you have heard more than enough – be careful!

Best family outing

Drumlanrig Castle, Dumfriesshire

Teddy bear picnics, evening walks, fresh locally produced food and off the road adventures – something there for all the family. Drumlanrig Castle, gardens and country park in Dumfriesshire is an excellent day out for all age groups. The beautiful renaissance castle standing in the woods of Nithsdale is home to the Duke of Buccleuch. Art lovers will enjoy his wonderful collection, including works by Holbein and Rembrandt. The countryside surrounding the castle is stunning, with interesting trails – look out for the Red Oak planted in 1972 by the first man on the moon, Neil Armstrong. There’s also the first Douglas Fir ever to be planted in this country and the Drumlanrig Sycamore, which is one of Scotland’s top heritage trees. A good day to visit might be the last Sunday of each month when local farmer’s market takes place – sample some fresh local produce and enjoy.

Kelburn Castle and Country Park, Ayrshire

This has to be the most colourful castle in Scotland. Thanks to the work of some of the world’s most famous graffiti artists, Kelburn Castle in Ayrshire has been completely transformed from a grey exterior into an explosion of colour. The unusual art work project, which was completed last year, mixes influences of Brazilian myths with Scottish history resulting in a totally unique clash of culture. Love or loathe it, the only way to see if it works is to go and find out for yourself! Kelburn Castle is owned by the 10th Earl of Glasgow and his family, descendents of the Boyvilles, one of Scotland’s oldest families, who settled here in 1140. Rising maintenance costs forced the family to consider how they could bring in more money to upkeep the estate. The result is a fantastic range of activities to entertain families and children of all ages. There are adventure trails, outdoor play areas, a secret forest, a maze and riding school in the grounds. Depending when you visit, there will be plenty of other things going on, making this a great place to take kids in the school holidays.

Field Facts Cubbie Roo: www.orkneyjar.com

Castle Tioram: www.tioram.org

Dunnottar Castle: www.dunnottarcastle.co.uk

Kilchurn Castle: www.kilchurncastle.com

Eilean Donan Castle: www.eileandonancastle.com

Castle Stalker: www.castlestalker.com

Fyvie Castle: www.fyviecastle.com

Glamis Castle: www.glamis-castle.co.uk

Drumlanrig Castle: www.drumlanrig.com

Kelburn Castle and Country Park: www.kelburncastle.com